Catwalk Report - Prophetik Autumn/Winter 2010
Eco-fashion inspired by the American Civil War - all the way from Tennessee. Tom Jeffreys reports from the Prophetik show at London Fashion Week.
A lone violinist fiddles out a tune, a ditty reminiscent of the old-time values of the American South – not the contemporary stereotype but something more refined and authentic. And fun! The assembled fashion crowd are even having a little dance – well, some of them are at least. This evocative music sets the tone for the London Fashion Week catwalk debut of Tennessee-based designer Jeff Garner's super eco-friendly brand Prophetik.
Prophetik is all about sustainability: the collection uses organic cottons, hemp, and recycled fabrics like Greenspun, made with recycled bottles. All the dying is GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified, and they hand organic dye with indigo grown in the studio’s own garden. All materials are sourced in America and Canada, and everything is then made in the designer's home town of Tennessee.
Inspired by the American Civil War, the collection is an exploration of hardship, independence and vulnerability. Combining practical workwear – denim-esque waistcoats, wooden buttons, herringbone – with more luxurious and elegant eveningwear, the girls are reminiscent of those brave heroines in old westerns. Husbands killed in brawls and battles, they're left behind, alone, to man the ranch. Delicate, but tough, practically-minded but beautiful, these girls combine wholesomeness and hardship with a tinge of sad regret.
Jodphurs, riding boots and ripped leggings in greys and blues hint at a willingness to muck in, whilst colour is introduced into the more dressy elements: these are not tomboys. A showstopping red bustier in recycled velvet is an apt, uplifting, finale.
The boys don't quite captivate like the girls – in terms of force or complexity of character: they're more like the hopeful suitors. Three-quarter length frock coats, waistcoats, and peace silk neckties hint at something of the dandy, albeit a nineteenth century Southern dandy, restrained by adversity. It more than resonates today.
The boys don't quite captivate like the girls – in terms of force or complexity of character: they're more like the hopeful suitors. Three-quarter length frock coats, waistcoats, and peace silk neckties hint at something of the dandy, albeit a nineteenth century Southern dandy, restrained by adversity. It more than resonates today.
Check out the full interview HERE,
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