London Fashion Week's Off-Schedule began Friday with some 45 of the
industry's emerging creatives showcasing their autumn/winter 2010/11
collections alongside the British Fashion Council's headline shows.
Highlight shows so far have included Bernard Chandran, a line favoured by
singer Estelle, which this season saw structured tailoring combining wools and
silks with heavy beaded embellishment making for statement eveningwear.
New to the schedule, eco-label Prophetik on the other hand looked to the
American Civil War for inspiration, pulling in recycled silk floor-length smock
dresses alongside organic cotton jodhpurs and hemp stretch frock coats.
David Koma, last season's Merit Award winner at Vauxhall Fashion Scout,
undoubtedly attracted one of the largest crowds, the front row taken up by
editors including Sarah Mower and Hilary Alexander, and Browns' Joan
Burstein.
His now signature bodycon dresses were a monochromatic nod to geometric
pattern, combining soft leather with wools and flesh-exposing cutouts.
Burstein, who exclusively stocked Koma's spring/summer 2010 line at Browns
Focus, was once again a fan. She told WGSN she was impressed by not only
how talented and creative Koma is but how focused and professional he
comes across.
The same could be reflected across this season's off schedule, the existence
of which she emphasised as what London is all about: "There's so much talent
here," she said. "My team try and get to all the off schedule shows and we
follow the progress of all the designers we stock including Mark Fast, Felder
Felder, Mary Katrantzou and Holly Fulton, many of whom got their start at
Off-Schedule."
Vauxhall Fashion Scout director Martyn Roberts added: "London is all about
showcasing a variety of the best young design talent there is, and our aim is
to support innovation at whatever level the designers are at. A few years ago
it was catwalk or nothing, now there are all sorts of opportunities including
presentations, or if they're not in the position to show yet, the exhibition."
On|Off, the other key Off-Schedule host, was relocated at Victoria House this
season, also welcoming a large exhibition space complete with stuffed deer
and ceiling sculpture made from hand-cut paper, as well as a tribute wall to
Alexander McQueen in collaboration with Catwalking.com featuring hundreds
of images on 40 embedded iPods.
The On|Off Presents show proved another highlight, this season with Derek
Lawlor, Mr + Mr, Samantha Cole and Txell Miras all making their fashion
week debut.
Still to come Monday is Pam Hogg, while over at Vauxhall Fashion Scout is
the much-anticipated Hermione de Paula, a highlight of last season's Ones to
Watch show and the winner of the autumn/winter 2010/11 VFS Merit Award.
Tuesday will also see William Tempest in his third and final season under the
Merit Award scheme. "We'll still be working with him," said Roberts. "We're
helping him find new sponsors and grow because we do believe he should be
on schedule next season."
© WGSN 2010
London's Off-Schedule hotbed of young talent at
fashion week
WGSN 22.02.10
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